92 Boutari 2010 Santorini Kallisti
Santorini as thirst inspiring as a salt lick, this barrel-fermented assyrtiko is deeply savory, a dense symphony of salted butter, creamy nougat and savory honey flavor wrapped around a core of orange flavor. It still has some youthfully aggressive edges to its powerful acidity, and needs time in the cellar (two years at the least; ten wouldn’t hurt) for the structure to relax.
92 Boutari 2012 Pallini Matsa Malagouzia
The heat of the 2012 vintage is evident in this wine’s deep golden hue, about two shades darker than usual. And then there’s the scent –pineapple and toasted almonds, chamomile and kumquats. It handles the vintage well, the cashmere texture carrying the flavor effortlessly, the combination of briney minerality and acidity adding succulence. It’s a powerful white for pork tenderloin basted with oranges and honey.
93 Boutari 2008 Naoussa Grande Reserve
Year in and out, Boutari’s Grande Reserve sets the mark for Naoussa in a traditional style. The 2008 excels in a vintage memorable for a summer of drought and heat spikes: The wine is moderate in its fruitiness, balanced more toward fresh mushroom than cherry. The earthy and herbal notes give it a complexity that’s riveting for minutes after each sip; the tannins are firm but fine, giving the wine a gauzy finesse.
92 Boutari 2012 Santorini
This smells like Santorini in the spring, before the heat, while the flowers are blooming and the grasses still green. It’s ripe and effusively aromatic, the lemon and gardenia notes firmly ensconced on a base of chalk. Approachable now –the balance spot-on- it also has the backbone to age well over the next five to eight years.
90 Boutari 2012 Mantinia Moschofilero
Like many 2012s, this is very ripe, redolent of honeysuckle, roses, orange and white pepper, but it stands apart for its balance, a combination of fullness of texture and bright, clear freshness that lends the wine balance and precision.
88 Boutari 2009 Naoussa
This is refreshingly light, the flavors as translucent as the color. With its see-through hue and flavors that run more raspberry leaf than berry, this is a classic Naoussa. The tannins hold it firm and the acidity keeps it crisp, making it a terrific pick for meaty vegetarian dishes as well as any sort of pork preparation.