@MarkSquiresW on Boutari Santorini: “it was hard to give up the glass” (@ RobertMParkerJr)

Mark Squires reviewed Boutari wines in the June 2012 issue of The Wine Advocate.

Boutari 2011 Santorini

90/100 points

The 2011 SANTORINI is Assyrtiko, and a rather refined and carefully crafted one that slowly evolves and unwinds, demonstrating its persistence and the ability to improve dramatically in the glass. Boutari seems to have a style, emphasizing harmony and balance, if I can add insights from what I see in Naoussa as well. This is always a more forward Santorini, without the pure power some of the others often show. If this starts with subtlety, however, it gradually becomes more impressive this year as it lingers in the glass and unfolds, showing layers, crispness and persistence that I wasn’t initially sure it had. This is a very fine performance if rather low key performance in this vintage, a harmonious, well balanced offering with surprisingly good aromatics, perhaps tinged by a hint of herbaceousness. For Assyrtiko, this has a lot of personality. I didn’t start out impressed, but it was hard to give up the glass. Drink now-2016.

Boutari 2011 Malagouzia Matsa

90/100 points

The 2011 MALAGOUZIA “MATSA” is quite fine this year, persistent and gripping on the finish, solid in the mid-palate and very aromatic. It is tinged with grassy notes, streaked with green, but not in an overwhelming sense. It is otherwise pure, clean and unadorned. This seems like quite a full bodied mouthful this year, with some notable power early in its life, but fear not — the alcohol is still only 13%. It will calm down a bit with a few months of time—not that there is anything wrong with its present, exuberant demeanor — while hopefully retaining its fine persistence for awhile. It should hold decently, but it will drink best now and in the next year or so, I suspect. At the moment, wherever it goes, it seems quite exceptional. Drink now-2015.

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