From the September 2014 issue of Wine Advocate:
Boutari 2004 Vinsanto
The 2004 Vinsanto is a library wine pulled for reevaluation. It has come along brilliantly and serious is in need of an uptick. It may get even better with cellaring. It is a blend of 90% Assyrtiko and 10% Aidani weighing in at 12% alcohol. Bottle aging has greatly helped this wine. It has fleshed out and simply unfolded, becoming more complex along the way and showing layers that it did not initially seem to have. It shows remarkable power and intense grip on the finish, grabbing the entire palate with tension. With some nods to Boutari’s 2009 style, it is a bit on the muscular side and emphasizes the power more than the sugar and zest. Whether due to age, vintage or the lower alcohol level (perhaps all three), this 2004 does that style better, though, at least just now. Finally, these wines do age a long while. It is hard to say when they die and they may outlive a lot of people. Tight and still evolving, this 2004 should have a long life. I tend to be conservative in drinking windows (my normal tendency anyway), as the wines can change in character with extreme age and oxidation. Not everyone may like the older incarnations, given that they will substitute complexity for zest. It is perhaps fairer to acknowledge, here and in general, a much longer window (they may go longer still). Just note that as they age, they may not seem quite the same in character. Drink now-2035.